Trimming Natural Hair
When to trim?
When I relaxed my hair, I would trim my ends every 6-8 weeks, along with my relaxer touch ups. I was told that trimming often will keep my hair healthy, and promote growth. Since going natural, many ‘hair care rules’ I once lived by, have been revamped.
Here is what I learned:
Here is what I learned:
What promotes hair growth?
Despite what you may hear, trimming your ends will not promote hair growth. There are topical solutions that can increase blood circulation to your scalp. Also, there are many ingredients that boost your metabolism, like vitamins, can increase your hair growth from within. Preventive measure that diminish the chances of split ends, can will help with length retention. The more length you retain as your hair grows, the longer your hair will be. It is not necessary to trim your hair every 6-8 weeks, this will not magically make your hair grow. However, scalp massages could help! Also, check out this list of topical solutions, that have been proven to work, and help grow healthy curls.
When to trim your ends?
Why trim based on a calendar? The most important tip any natural can get is to listen to your hair. If you trim every 6 to 8 weeks, you will only slow down length retention. Remember hair grows ½ inch a month on average. Many believe that curly, kinky hair grows even slower than that. If your goal is to achieve long kinky hair, you’re going to have to retain length, while promoting growth. Trim only as needed. I trim my hair twice a year. Some curly girls only trim every few years. Instead, I target my spilt ends. Instead of sacrificing inches of, otherwise healthy hair, I take my time and thoroughly examine my ends. I only cut what needs to go. It takes me about half an hour to snip my troubled ends, while I detangle. If too many strands seem damaged toward the ends, I will do a ‘dusting’, or ‘micro trim’. On stretched hair, I target my split ends, then I trim less than ¼ inch all over. The hair that was trimmed is so short, it look like dust. And I am left with healthy ends, that will not continue to split up the hair shaft.
Why is it different now?
Relaxed hair is technically weaker than unaltered, natural hair. The process of relaxing hair can be brutal on your hair and scalp. Relaxed strands are naturally weaker, due to the process. To avoid damage, many stylist suggest you trim your ends with each relaxer. Because many suggest that you relax you hair every 6-8 weeks, you are suggested to trim at that time as well. Since going natural I take more time to evaluate the health of my hair, and respond by giving it what It needs to thrive. If my hair is dry I give it moisture, If my ends are split, I let go of any troubled parts. Keep your hair trimmed and moisturized as needed.
You May Also Like:
Trimming Methods for Kinky Hair Big Chop VS Transition
You May Also Like:
Trimming Methods for Kinky Hair Big Chop VS Transition
Saves Thin Hair, and Grows Thick Curls
Ginger
A Cure for Slow Growth, and Thin Hairlines?
A healthy scalp is the foundation for healthy hair. I have tested Ginger powder and pure Ginger by stirring a teaspoon into a deep conditioning masque, and hair oils. I have found ginger powder aids in scalp circulation, the immediate tingle wakes my scalp up! The moment the warm masque was applied, I could feel the A pinch of pure ginger powder may be able to benefit those with thinning hair, and slow growth issues acting as a fertilizer to help give hair a natural growth spurt!
A healthy scalp is the foundation for healthy hair. I have tested Ginger powder and pure Ginger by stirring a teaspoon into a deep conditioning masque, and hair oils. I have found ginger powder aids in scalp circulation, the immediate tingle wakes my scalp up! The moment the warm masque was applied, I could feel the A pinch of pure ginger powder may be able to benefit those with thinning hair, and slow growth issues acting as a fertilizer to help give hair a natural growth spurt!
Fresh Ginger root contains magnesium, phosphorous, potassium and vitamins, that help in making your hair stronger, healthier and shinier. One way to extract the goodness of fresh ginger is to warm the chopped, or grated root in olive oil. I have mixed this ginger oil and used on my hairline. I belive the combinitation of JBCO and this Ginger oil has helped me to re-grow sparse areas, and strengthen my delicate 4c strands.
Thoes with slow growth issues can apply this ginger oil mixture over night. Unlike many other ingredients that stimulate hair growth, the smell of ginger is pleasant, yet potent. Aroma is a big deal for me. A product can contain the best ingrediatens, but if the smell is unpleseant, I probably will not stick with it. Sulfor, and anything pudgent, sends me running, dispite its main positive properties. However, the intoxicating scent of ginger, combinted with natural essences, gives both, my sences and my strands a 'pick-me-up'. One of my favorits combinations use fresh orange peels steeped in olive oil. The duo of citrus, and ginger satifiys my nose, while the rich fatty acids nurish to limit dandruff, close cuticles, promote blood flow.
Ginger is known to be a mild stimulant and can be used to promote circulation. This same benefit of ginger that supports circulation has also been shown to help lower high blood pressure, keep the blood flowing to prevent blood clots, And Ginger has been proven to burn Fat, in case you needed another reason to try this super root!
5 combs naturals cant live without
Tackling massive curls can be a challenge. Big show stopping curls, can be misleading, their mass can give the illusion of durability. Curly girls know all too well just how sensitive their curls can be. Fragile type 3 and type 4 curls require a delicate touch.
Many naturals swear by finger combing as a way to detangle, and remove shed hairs. I recommend finger combing to tackle daily detangling when sealing in moisture. Finger combing gives you the ability to apply the perfect amount of tension, and will allow you to target trouble strands, and tangles with minimal damage to the rest of your hair.The Pick
A wide-toothed comb with a dense base for better handle. The pick features few teeth, spaced far apart with long teeth to reach close to the scalp allowing you stretch your hair from the root. This is the best volume boosting tool. The pick can also help with covering the parts from setting your hair. Hair too flat? Gently lift the roots of your hair with a pick, for an instant boost of volume. Picks are great for lifting the base of your hair without disturbing the rest of your hairstyleWide Tooth Comb
They come in various sizes and styles. Be sure the comb has small or no seams in-between the teeth. Test combs before running them through your hair. Run the comb lightly down your arm. If the comb leaves scratches, the comb is too sharp. A sharp comb can scrape your scalp when styling. Use combs with rounded edges, and dull teeth to maintain healthy hair and scalp.
Seamless Combs
They come in a variety of materials. Seamless combs are made with curly girls in mind. They snag your hair less, and part your kinks like a hot knife through butter. They cost a bit more than your average comb, and will be labeled as ‘seamless’. However, if your strands are fragile, or you experience a lot of breakage when using combs. Seamless combs may be the option for you. You lower the chance your hair will snag while detangling.
Wooden Combs
Plastic and metal brushes can be rough on the scalp. Wooden combs are soft and polished. They have a much softer feel than plastic or metal combs. If you have sensitive scalp then wooden combs can prevent bruising or scraping your scalp. Most combs say you should avoid long contact with water and with extreme temperatures. To take care for it you wash it with water and soft shampoo and dry it with a towel. To keep it shiny a bit oil is great. Be sure your wooden comb is a wide tooth comb as well.
Tail Combs
The only time you should use a tail comb is to make perfect parts when styling. Never use a small tooth comb to tackle your curls. Tail combs can be found with wide teeth. Be sure that the tail end of the comb is not too sharp. Sharp tail combs can scratch the scalp.
Natural & Blonde -- How to Maintain Healthy Colored Curls
IndigenousCurls
Shares Neosha's Routine
Neosha- is a Lover of all things fashion, beauty, natural hair, creative, and vibrant. You can find more from her here!
Heres What Neosha Has to say about her new Blonde Do, revamped routine, and products that keep her curls amazing!
To get you all up to date on my latest hair craze, my better half decided that I should give hair color a try. At first I didn't want to alter my previous natural hair regimen to make due with the much longer process of caring for color-treated natural hair but at the same time there was a little part of me that wanted those vibrant colored tresses I had been spotting all over the city this past summer.
Leave it to the men in our lives to be bad influences lol. After being a little wussy about it while strolling around my local Sally's Beauty Supply store, my "hubby" decided to point out the blondest of blondes. I was like "HELLLLL NO sir...". He was so serious too about the color.
I have the training in hair color from when I attended cosmetology school and all and I already knew the possible damage my hair could endure if I decided to go more than 3 shades lighter on my strands even though my hair was already at it's strongest point prior to coloring. This is where it all gets interesting. I was in the middle of mid-life crisis. Okay, maybe not that but I needed a second opinion so he decided to give his mother a call who happens to be a licensed cosmologist. Hallelujah! She recommended I try a few things just to be on the safer side so we left Sally's and hopped over to Wal-Mart.
After searching and comparing products, we ended up purchasing the L'Oreal
If you follow me on Instagram or Facebook, you may know that previously my hair was a deep brown. My natural hair color. Thanks to my babe for being such a sport and actually being the one who colored my hair for me lol. I'm upset I can't find the video footage but I have photos! Always!
My natural hair regimen changed drastically because I knew to expect the need for more moisture. NOTE: If you plan to dye your hair from dark to pretty light, have TONS of moisture, hot oil, and deep conditioning products on hand. If you have NO knowledge of how hair color works, please go to a professional.
MY UPDATED NATURAL HAIR CARE REGIMEN
- Since coloring natural hair tends to be tricky, the need for more moisture in my regimen increased. I wash my hair once every two weeks. Each time I was, I deep condition. When I'm deep conditioning, I apply a shower cap over my hair and let it sit for 1-2 hours max if I have nothing better to do with my time. I co-wash a few times a month. No set number of times, only when I feel my hair needs it most. I don't want to over do it.
- My secret weapon... ACV, which is a monthly Apple Cider Vinegar rinse. This really gets rid of the majority of impurities trapped in my hair from product build up over time. Absolutely LIVE by this stuff! I recently discovered they sold the AVC I had been searching for at GNC. Got it!
- Depending on how I feel, I'll wash/co-wash in the shower or sink. If in the shower, I part my hair in four sections making sure that I finger detangle each section before cleansing to get rid of any knots or tangles.
- Protein treatments have also become even more apart of my natural hair. Since the hair is made up of 91% protein it would only make sense to treat your hair with protein. Many times I'd add a treatment to each time I co-wash.
- After cleansing my hair thoroughly I apply a leave-in conditioner or moisturizing product of choice to my hair and style. I'm a big poster child for twist-outs so I do tend to just twist my hair after cleansing. I love to see my curls pop while I'm washing and after when I'm applying product. They're just so sexy!! lol.
For Washing:
- Terressentials Pure Earth Hair Wash (currently using scent Left Coast Lemon)*
- Curls Creamy Curl Cleanser
- Suave Professionals Aloe Vera+Ginseng Shampoo/Conditioner*
For Conditioning:
- Oyin Handmade Honey Hemp Conditioner*
- Healing Herbs by Rene Tropical Hemp Conditioner*
- Suave Professionals Almond & Shea Butter Conditioner*
- Nexxus Humectress Ultimate Moisture Conditioner
- Garnier Fructis Sleek & Shine Leave-In Conditioning Cream
For Deep Conditioning:
- Dr. Miracles Deep Conditioner*
- Africa's Best Organics Hair Mayonnaise
- Jessicurl Deep Conditioning Treatment*
- African Pride Shea Butter Miracle Leave-In Conditioner*
For Oil Treatments/Hot Oil
- Softn'free GroHealthy Milk & Protein Olive Oil (Three Layer Growth Oil)*
- Organic Root Stimulator Hair Repair Vital Oils For Hair & Scalp*
- Dr.Miracle's Intensive Healing Oil hair & Scalp Treatment*
- Africa's Best Herbal Oil
For Protein Treatments:
Palmers Coconut Oil Formula Deep Conditioning Protein Pack*
For Styling:
- La Bella Lots of Curls Styling Gel
- Fruit of The Earth Aloe Vera Gel*
- African Pride Shea Butter Miracle Bouncy Curls Pudding*
- Softn'Free GroHealthy Nothing But Curl Sealer
- Softn'free GroHealthy Nothing But Mold & Hold Wax
- Shea Moisture Curl Enhancing Smoothie
Okay, so yes, I may be a slight product junky. Just a tad bit. Don't judge. I just enjoy trying new things and experimenting with products on my hair. I haven't experienced any problems with fading hair color or anything with use of these products. The products I use in my natural hair regimen marked with asterisks(*) are usually my go-to staple products.
Talk about a mane of fluff! This is my hair on my last wash day taken from the front with my head down. My curls have gotten so fierce! I Love it! My hair goal is to get past my current stage 3 hair and make it to stage 4 and beyond to reach lioness status! Oh yeah!
IndigenousCurls Thanks Neosha!
How do you prep, and maintain your hair color? What brands do you reach for?
Supermarket Finds For Your Curls!
Things You Can Buy
at the Supermarket
For your Curls!
One popular question is, “What items can I buy at the supermarket for my hair?”
Make your next run to the grocery, A curly success!
Here is a list of Oils, and products that you can buy at the supermarket, and use on your hair.
Add/seal Moisture
Coconut Oil
Coconut Water
Banana
Avocado Oil
Grape seed Oil
Honey
Sunflower Oil
Sesame Oil
Crisco*
Olive Oil
EVOO
Vegetable glycerin
Flax Seeds
Aloe
Aloe Gel
Cleansing
Spring water
Lemon/ lemon juice
Bacon soda
Yogurt
Strengthen
Carrot Oil
Mayo
Eggs
Aloe Gel
Avocado
Anti-itch / styling
Peppermint Oil
Flax Seeds
Ginger
The First Thing You Need To Know About Natural Hair
HAIR POROSITY
Porosity is the measure of the hair's ability to absorb moisture.
This is determined by the condition of the hair's cuticle layer (the overlapping scales of the hair shaft), and is rated as low, normal, and high. In normal, healthy hair, the cuticle is compact and inhibits the penetration of the hair shaft by moisture - both moisture going in, and moisture coming out. When the cuticle is overly compact and prevents the penetration of the hair by moisture it has low porosity.
The HAIR POROSITY TEST
What you will need:
Clear or Glass Cup or Bowl
Room Temperature Water
Stands of Hair
Directions:
Fill the cup/bowl up about 3/4 of the way up with water and let it sit until it's room temperature. Place the hair strands into the water and let them sit for at least 10 mins.
If the hair stays on top then you have low porosity hair, if the hair goes to the middle of the cup of water and stays then you have normal porosity hair, if the hair sinks to the bottom then you have high porosity hair.
Now that you have done your test, let me tell you a little information about your results.
Hair with low porosity is harder to process, and is resistant to hair color. Hair with high porosity is hair whose cuticle layer is open and the hair too-readily absorbs/ and loses moisture. Overly-porous hair also releases moisture easily and becomes dry and is easily damaged. Acid-balanced (ACV) conditioning treatments are used to contract the cuticle layer and lock-in moisture on overly-porous hair.
LOW POROSITY
If your strands of hair floated at the top then your hair is low porosity. This means that your hair cuticles are tight and compact and really resistant to opening for water and moisture, so the water couldn't get in causing the hair to stay afloat.
"That is why it may feel like certain products just sit on your hair instead of penetrating and absorbing into the hair".
In order to combat the resistance try to use lighter hair products with humectants. Use lighter oils, such as sweet almond and jojoba oil, that don't weigh the hair down. Use a leave in conditioner after you wash. You should wash and condition your hair with warm water, use steamers, and do deep conditioning treatments under a hooded dryer. These techniques will aid in opening up your hair cuticles to allow product, moisture, and water in. Try to avoid a low pH product because they have high levels of acid that keep the cuticles closed and also apply product while the hair is damp instead of soaking wet or dry.
NORMAL POROSITY
If the strands went down to the middle then you have normal porosity hair. Your hair cuticles are "perfect" they open and close in a way to help your hair maintain the right amount of moisture and allows product to penetrate the hair easily. You don't have to use specific types of products or do certain techniques to get your hair to absorb moisture. You can pretty much use any product that isn't damaging to your hair. Pretty Lucky!!!
HIGH POROSITY
Your hair strands went to the bottom and stayed, so you have high porosity hair. Your cuticles are so open they absorb water and moisture quickly and have a hard time holding onto that moisture, as it can escape from the hair easily because of the open or raised cuticles This type of hair is similar to low porosity where you have to apply more effort into maintaining moisture into the hair.
"This type of hair is more prone to frizz so you should try using heavier creams or butters along with heavier oils, such as olive, coconut, and black castor to seal in the moisture."
You can also try protein rich products such as avocado, aloe, and wheat protein as the protein can help fill in the gaps in the hair cuticles. Heavy butters and creams will help lock in moisture.
Protective Style Nightmare: Braids Too Tight!
Protective styles give your hair a break for daily styling and manipulation damage. Braids, twists, and buns are all great protective styles when done correctly. If your head hurts, it's because your hair is braided/pulled too tightly, or you have too much extension hair added. In either situation, this doesn't bode well for the future of your hairline. Avoid the unnecessary pain and hair loss with theses easy tips.
Some braiders may tell you to take an aspirin and the pain should be gone by morning, but any pain is an indicator that something is wrong. If you have to lay down after getting your hair styled, your hair is too tight, and your scalp is at risk!
A braider may braid tightly so that the style lasts as long as possible, which is what most of us want. But tight tension is not good for your hair, hairline and scalp. Medium tension is best for fashioning braids; they may not last as long as super tight braids, but your hairline will survive the style!
If you're a victim of headache-inducing braids, what can you do?
- Tip 1: Soothe Them! Use warm water to loosen them. Take a shower and let the water cascade over your hair. You may need to gently rub your scalp with the pads of your fingers, to loosen the braids a little. This is not the time to worry about how much money you just spent and how much time it took to style these braids, so don't think about that. Concern yourself with loosening up this tight style and saving your hairline. Wear the hair in a loose low pony as it drys. Follow the warm water with cold Aloe Gel to further soothe your irritated scalp. If 2 days have pasted and you are still in pain move on tip #2.
- Tip 2: Remove them. Yes, remove any braids that are causing little angry bumps to pop up on your scalp, especially around your hair line. This is not normal and can lead to Permanent hair loss down the road, especially if you make a habit of wearing tight braid styles. Do yourself a favor and see how your head feels when you're still in the stylist's chair. Does it hurt while she's braiding? Is there pain, even after she has moved on to the next braid? This is the time to ask her to ease up on your hair. Be vocal, and communicate your needs. Speak up! Its your money, and your head. It's much easier for her to take a step back and possibly redo the first few braids during your appointment than it will be to call her up and ask her to redo them later. Plus, let's face it: not all braiders are going to take kindly to second day phone calls and they may refuse to do them over.
- Tip 3: Moisturize and nourish. Be sure to treat your angry scalp with nourishing ointments and oils. JBCO, vitamin E, and coconut oil can all help with soothing your head, and growing back any lost hairs.
- Tip 4: Hit the Road! Do not return to tight braiders: Some braiders are notoriously hard on hair. Once should be enough to tell you that this is someone who doesn't care about the health of your scalp.
You can take pain relievers, spritz your braids with soothing hair products, sleep sitting up like the Elephant Man if you like, but tight braids are tight braids. Traction alopecia (Hair loss due to tight hairstyles) is a serious issue in the kinky hair community and what makes it so tragic is that in the vast majority of cases, it's preventable. Don't let a temporary hairstyle trump your hair's health.
Hair Typing and Why It Is Important
Hair Typing
and
Why It Is Important
and
Why It Is Important
I had my first relaxer when I was 4. I continued to relax my hair for many years, and when I decided to go natural, I had no idea what to expect. As my natural hair grew in, it required completely different care, compared to my relaxed hair. Water was my sworn enemy. Irons were my friends. I minimized oils, as they made my hair heavy, and greasy. All of this changed when I cut the relaxed ends. For a while, I was stuck with a new head of hair, and no knowledge of how to care for it, or how to style it. I began to search online for answers..
I graduated cosmetology school 7 years ago. Hair type was never discussed. I knew my hair was fine, despite its inherent mass. I also knew my hair was porous. The only thing I knew for sure about my curls:
The amount of coil, wave, or lack thereof, is dependent on the number of disulfide bonds between hair proteins found in the hair shaft; the greater the number of links, the curlier the hair, and the fewer the number of links, the straighter the hair. But I needed to know more about My Hair.
First I Googled natural hair. That didn't yield much information for me. I was coming across loosely coiled hair, that did not resemble my own. Next I Googled Afro hair. Aside from a few afro wigs, and groovy old school photos, I was on to something! As I searched a bit more, I came across this hair chart.
Going through a visual list, I narrowed down the best way to describe my hair.Finally a starting point! I was able to research other potential properties my curls may have. I was able to search for others who were dealing with similar issues, and what they were using to combat them. I also began to note new hair idols. I’m fascinated how long 4c hair can grow when properly cared for. I believe hair typing is just a reference point. No 2 heads are alike. Hair Typing gives the ability to group hair tendencies, and move forward with a plan of action.. From this list I began searching 4c hair.
You know what I found?
Its so versatile! Form curls, to coils, to waves, and puffs, and back again!
Its not difficult, if you know what you’re doing.
It can be soft. It can grow.
It Can look like hers (whoever your obsessing over) it just takes a few steps.
My unbiased biased opinion: It’s the BEST! Hair typing is necessary. It helps new naturals associate with a new world. It encourages discourse. At the very least, it gives me a topic to google. I love my 4c coils. I Have nothing against those who don’t like the typing system. I also notice those people who despise the hair typing chart, usually have 4c hair…. Just an observation…..
Google your hair type. What do you see? How do you feel about it? Share with Us!
Make Your 4c Curls Melt | 4 Simple Steps
Make Your 4c Curls Melt | 4 Simple Steps
“If you called me names, & deprived me of the things I need, I wouldn't cooperate either” I read this in another Hair blog, and completely agreed.
 |
| Hair Feel Like Steel Wool? Keep Reading! |
“Hard”
My 4c curls were HARD and CRUNCHY for a whole year.
It wasn't my hair, it was ME. Your hair is not HARD, its dry. Yes, you may condition it. You may even use grease, and oils. Is your hair soft the 1st day, then dry soon afterwards.. Unbelievable shine AND feels like straw?
Keep Reading! I have some advice for you!
 |
| Soft to the Touch 4c Hair Is Possible! |
Step 1 | Moisture Starts BEFORE You Wash
I PrePoo
Take a mixture of your preferred Oils and apply generous amounts on the hair, while finger detangling, tip to root. Take your time, making sure not to snap, pull, or break the hair. Everyone’s hair is different experiment and see what oils work best for you. My 4c hair loves heavy oils. Here is my mix:
Jamaican Black Castor Oil
Lanolin Oil
Coconut Oil
Soybean Oil
Sunflower Oil
 |
| Proven to Penetrate the hair shaft and nourish dry hair |
 |
| Proven to Regrow Hair |
I mix 3 or more of the oils together and let it saturate in overnight. I pineapple my hair, and cover my head with a bonnet. When my hair was too short to pineapple, I would Wrap my head with a silk scarf, then put on a bonnet.
Step 2 | Co Wash
I don’t use shampoo often. Most of the time I co-wash. Using only conditioner (and a lot of it). I saturate my hair with water, then apply conditioner, tip to root. To make things easier I cleanse my hair in sections. I section my hair in 4, pin up 3 sections and apply conditioner to each section, tip to root. I make sure to smooth the sections with my palms (Not raking with my fingers). Without rinsing, I pin up the saturated section, and continue with each section. Once conditioned, I remove all pins, and rinse. I reach for a wide tooth comb
Step 3 | Deep Conditioner
*Watch out for protein overload. Ever heard of too much of a good thing? Protein is one of those things. If you are constantly conditioning your hair with protein based conditioners, it can make your hair brittle and dry. Be sure to switch up between alcohol based conditioners and protein based conditioners.
Step 4 | Seal
 |
| After PrePoo & Co Wash -- My Naked 4c Hair |
After taking the time to detangle, cleanse, and nourish, you want to hold on to those results. The best way to keep you hair soft for days, even weeks after washing, is sealing. Coating your hair with nourishing oils, butters, and water will help maintain your style. I seal every 3 days If my hair is not in a protective style. Here is what I use
Water
Butter (Shea, Coco, coconut)
Oil
Aloe
Conditioner
Hairband/Pins/Clips
In a spray bottle I add water, a squirt of conditioner or pure aloe gel. I Section my hair in 4, working 1 section at a time, I spray the mixture until my hair is damp (Not dripping). I Take some butter, (I love shea butter) and smooth each section tip to root. I often take this time to detangle as well. You should begin to notice you hair softening with each stroke. I gather the section, and twist it into a tight little bun, securing it with a pin. I continue this on the other sections, ending with 4 small, well moisturized buns. I remove the buns 20mins later. Allowing any water to dry.
 |
| 1 week old hair, sealed & stretched with a Braidout |
No matter how you wear your hair healthy hair is good hair. Be good to your hair.
Damn That Damage | Grow That Hair!
Damn That Damage!
We Have The 411 On Length Retention
 |
| Sorce: nikisgroove.tumblr.com/ |
"My Hair is not Growing"
Fact Check: Unless you have a medical condition your hair IS growing! It may be breaking at the same pace, or even faster than it grows.
Damage is a barrier that will prevent you from seeing hair growth. Your hair is actually growing all the time, but with damage in the way, your hair is breaking off at the same rate it is growing, which is why there will appear to be no growth or progress.
How to fight it?
Fact Check: Once the bonds of the hair is broken or split they cannot be repaired Many products claiming to fix split ends, can provide temporary relief from frizz and flyaways but cannot undo any damage. At the most these product strengthen hair, & smooth the cuticles, to prevent further damage. Split ends should always be trimmed.
You have to slow down the rate at which you damage your hair. Reduce is the word of choice used because it is impossible to eliminate all damage. Your hair is damaged to some degree every time you wash it, detangle it, and even touch it.
Lets Discuss the 4 types of damage that can occur & how to prevent them
Manipulation of the hair
Even if you are chemical free and you do have a good moisture routine, damage from manipulation can get in your way. To resolve this issue you have to be gentle with your hair. Take your time, and use your fingers.
The more you comb, style, or touch your hair you are causing damage to it. If you have particularly fragile hair, like 4b or 4c hair, this type of damage is easy to come by.
You might be thinking to yourself, "I am gentle!" Well, if you are experiencing breakage you are not being gentle enough. If you hear popping sounds while detangling, or feel any discomfort, your being too rough.
Taking an additional 10 minutes to detangle with your fingers will reduce the amount of damage that you experience. Remember you cannot eliminate damage completely. Taking just a few minutes will pay off in the long run, you will notice more length retention, and less breakage. How much manipulation damage will all vary from person to person.
For particularly fragile hair types you will want to keep your hair in protective and low manipulation hairstyles 70% -80% of the time and instead of detangling with combs or brushes you may want to try finger combing instead. Braid Outs, twist outs, palm coils, mini twists, pin tuck and rolls, puffs, updo's, braids, and buns are just some of the many low Manipulation options.
Is length retention is your current goal? If you are trying to gain length, maintain styles for 2 weeks at a time. This will help you to hold on to the hair that would have normally broken off had you worn a style that requires daily styling.
However for some naturals this is not practical, wearing styles for 2 to 3 weeks at a time may simply be unnecessary. Only you can determine this.
Nevertheless, even for naturals with looser curls and more resilient strands protective styles help to protect hair from damage.
Hair Dryness
Dryness of the hair will lead to hair breakage and split ends which ultimately prevent length retention. You have to have a good moisture routine if your goal is to have longer hair.
One problem is many people do not know how to effectively moisturize their hair. If this is you Keep reading!
Let’s first start with defining what a moisturizer actually is!
A moisturizer is a Water based solution. Which means oils, greases, and butters are not moisturizers, they are sealants, they help to keep moisture in your hair but they are not moisturizers.
So every time you set out to moisturize or LOCO your hair, you should lightly be misting with water or a water based product first, then sealing in that moisture with an oil and or butter.
When you moisturize you should moisturize all of your hair, but you want to pay close attention to the ends of your hair because they get particularly dry and they are the oldest and most delicate part of your hair.
You may need to moisturize each day, every other day, or even once a week. This is all specific to your hair. You will know what works for you by the look and feel of your hair. Healthy Hair is easier to manage.
Heat Damage
Flat Iron, Blow Dryer
While heat is a useful tool for giving us gorgeous stretched out styles, and luxurious deep conditioners, it is also good for sucking the moisture out of our hair. Does this mean you can never use heat? No it does not, but if you want healthy long hair you should cut down your usage of heat down to the bare minimum.
When you frequently use heat, you will also find that you will have to trim your hair more often, which again results in lack of length retention.
You also have to keep in mind that you may not have a consistency in style if you continuously heat style your hair. High heat will cause permanent straightening of hair strands for some naturals.
If you are transitioning this is why you should avoid flat irons and hot combs for a few months. You wouldn’t be able to tell the difference between relaxed hair and the hair that has been permanently altered from heat damage.
If you must have heat in your regimen do not use it more than once every 2 to 3 weeks. Try to stretch out the time you use heat as long as you can! Air dry overnight. Rock twists, and braids instead of blow drying.
I challenge you to try going 6 months without using heat styling tools in your hair. You will see a big improvement in your hair’s health.
There a other methods for stretching hair like banding, if you want stretched out hair.
Chemical Damage
Dye and Relaxers
Relaxers, Texturizers, and Hair Dyes will all cause some form of damage to the hair, because of the drastic changes that it does to the hair’s structure.
If you are a transitioner, you will notice that your relaxer may even be breaking off on it’s own. This is most likely due to the differences in the two hair textures that you have on your head, (the curls and bends represent weak points) and your ends are weathered from time while also being weakened from the relaxer.
During your transitioning stage, you will want to practice all of the above: protective styles, no heat, and moisture. As time goes on you will slowly trim away your relaxed or texturized ends.
Hair dye, especially if you are going to a lighter shade is drying to the hair. If you decide to permanently color your hair you will have to be strict with your moisturizing and deep conditioning routine. Otherwise, your hair will become dry and ultimately break. Be sure to listen to your hair. Some Curly girls Keep a hair diary.
Damn That Damage Over Time
It Takes Time
Remember you have to be consistent with good hair care practices. You cannot use heat daily, constantly manipulate your hair, and then expect for it to grow just because you slapped some moisturizer on your strands a few nights.
Give your hair a few months or so of using good hair care in order to see significantly healthier hair and growth. Progress will not happen over night. Track your progress with selfies, you'll have a great time looking back on your styles and phases on your natural hair journey.
Cover It Up
When Pillows Attack
Cotton pillow cases rob your hair of its moisture. Its coarse fibers are abrasive to your strands. Over time, this can cause breakage. As you toss and turn, your hair is being attacked. Cover your hair at night, or use a silk or satin pillow case to protect your strands.
Trichonodosis | How To Avoid this Length Killer!
Affecting Strands Across the Globe
Trichonodosis
How To Avoid this Length Killer!
Trichonodosis (knotted hair) A trauma induced knotting of the naturally curly/wavy/coily hair. This traumatic knot can cause breakage, and lead decreased length retention. These Single strand knots are usually found on the lower part of the hair strand. The knots fracture the cuticle and expose the cortex where these knots form. So now these knots are weak points on the hair strand since the cuticle layers are now bent into a knot shape, making detangling natural hair even more complicated. These single strand knots can reduce your length retention.
These knots are weak points on the hair strand since the cuticle layers are now bent into a knot shape, they simply intertwine with itself or other strands of hair, making detangling natural hair even more complicated, they are normally on one strand of hair, or more than one strand all together in one knot.
Because tightly curled hair is not oval or round, like straight hair, but ribbon-shaped and does not lie flat, it creates spirals which when pulled and released may lead to entangled hair forming knots
Half-hitch knots have a pattern and possibly could be detangled if they are not tight.
Shed hair, before leaving the scalp, tends to tangle with other hairs forming knots on its way down the hair strand.
How to Save Your Tresses
Wrap up your hair at night. Hair that's free during the night will be tangled and knotted in the morning. Use the pineapple or the mini pineapple method to preserve curls, and reduce tangles.
Wash and detangle hair in sections
Rock Low manipulation/protective styles
Keep your natural hair in a stretched state as often as possible
Styling should prevent friction and knot creation. Wearing the hair up means that hair is in a fixed position and is not forming meet and greet knots with all of the other spiral hair strands. This is a hard one because I like wearing my hair out and intend to do so when it gets to my desired length. However, because I know when my hair is out it means that it’s freely moving around tangling with other hair, I keep it moisturized and finger comb out any loose knots before they form into tighter ones.
Styling should prevent friction and knot creation. Wearing the hair up means that hair is in a fixed position and is not forming meet and greet knots with all of the other spiral hair strands. This is a hard one because I like wearing my hair out and intend to do so when it gets to my desired length. However, because I know when my hair is out it means that it’s freely moving around tangling with other hair, I keep it moisturized and finger comb out any loose knots before they form into tighter ones.
If you find yourself with a Single Strand Knot, use a safety pin and put the needle right in the middle of the knot and gently loosen your damp stands. I also unravel loose knots with my fingers using my Home Made Detangling Mist & Lotion For Curly Hair
Sometimes, when none of the above works. I cut these knots with a pair of barber’s scissors if the knots are close to my ends. If they are too high up on my hair strand, I don’t cut it, I just can’t bare to.
Since making adjustments to my styling and detangling, I notice less SSN (Single Strand Knots) I do not straighten my hair often so the knots close to the root don't bother me.
Keeping your hair moisturized and your cuticles closed will also cut down on the single strand knots.
4 Trimming Methods for Curly Hair
Keep Those Ends In Check!
1. Blow Out Hair and Trim Dry- Cut the hair when it’s straight (or at least stretched with the heat of a blow dryer). This technique is highly recommended for a proper trim by many stylist. The Stylist can accurately gauge full hair length and extent of split ends. This should be done 2 times a year to minimize tangels, knots, and breakage.
2. Clipping Curly Hair Wet – Some prefer this technique because the hair is flexible and can be stretched and detangled for trimming. The downside is that you can’t see ends that need to be removed or the actual shape of your hair. Curly hair is ribbon shaped. Depending on your curl pattern this technique may work best for you.
3. Dusting – There are many Youtube tutorials on this technique. The hair is plaited in two-strand twist and the ends of the twist are cut. I use this method every 3 months. Not only is it impossible to see what you’re cutting but your hair will be different lengths. This is the best way to get helmet shape hair where the hair is flat in the back and lacks movement. I don’t recommend this as your only method of trimming your ends, But it helps in between trims, keeping ends healthy and knot free in between major cuts.
4. Dry Cutting- which is cutting your hair while it is curly and dry. This method is for shape-styling curly/coily hair. Some believe is the best method if you always wear your hair in its natural curl pattern state. This method is great if you are looking to cut those perfect curly bangs.
happy trimming curlies!
Big Chop VS Transitioning...... The age old question!
RESEARCH:
If you're insane/obsessed with coils, like me, you've read all you can on taking the next step. I have spent hours in Beauty Supply Stores, pouring over products, ingredients, and hair magazines. I even stop random curly queens on the street, asking about their journey, preferred products, and styling tips. And this was all before I picked up a pair of scissors.
JUMP:
I watched my BFF Big chop, and rock her dark Cesar with fierce confidence, & chandelier earrings, to corporate offices, & family events. As her Cesar grew into a twa (Teeny Weeny Afro), her rage of styles grew as well. "Its all about the accessories" she says. I say its about the confidence. I hesitated for years after she BC'd. Back then, there was something so comforting, about my familiar glossy/flat styles. I couldn't let it go. Not just yet. Despite my BFF's success, Fresh out of college I had so many worries. Can I interview with my coils? Will I get the Job? Will my Boo like it? What will my family say? Will I Still be "Cute"? Armed with Knowledge, and a bit of reassurance from friends, I JUMPED!! After the first Snip, there was no turning back. I big chopped!
ADAPT:
Whether you decide to "Big Chop" (Cut it all off) or "Transition" (Let it grow out, and trim often), letting go of the "Creamy Crack" and all of its habits can be difficult, daunting, and scary. I had relaxed my hair since I was 4 years old (insane!). I had no clue how to care for my natural hair, what it even looked like, or what it needed to thrive. Glossy, flat styles were all I had ever known. I could wrap my hair in my sleep. My Saturdays were spent in the salon. Water & Rain were my sworn enemies, & "Hair Grease" was my bff. For me, Embracing my curls meant embracing a new lifestyle. My Saturdays were MINE once again! I no longer dodged rain drops, but welcomed the added moisture, and carefree moments that came along with it. I tossed out my combs, & shampoo (More on that later). And with the cash I saved, from firing my hairdresser, & purchasing 100% natural oils & butters, I was able splurge on Silk bed sheets & Pillowcases!
1st time I was able to braid my hair after BC
ADAPT AGAIN:
As my hair continues to grow, my routine changes. As the season change, my hair requires different things. I'm constantly evaluating the health of my hair and adapting my techniques to work with it.
If you thinking about making a change, I suggest 3 things Research, Adapt, Jump, Adapt again
Feel free to SHARE your stories with the 4b 4c Hair Community on Goggle Plus https://plus.google.com/u/0/communities/100939183574825035919 What was your motivation to go natural? How was your experience received? Where do you stand now? How often to you adapt your routine?
RESEARCH:
If you're insane/obsessed with coils, like me, you've read all you can on taking the next step. I have spent hours in Beauty Supply Stores, pouring over products, ingredients, and hair magazines. I even stop random curly queens on the street, asking about their journey, preferred products, and styling tips. And this was all before I picked up a pair of scissors.
JUMP:
I watched my BFF Big chop, and rock her dark Cesar with fierce confidence, & chandelier earrings, to corporate offices, & family events. As her Cesar grew into a twa (Teeny Weeny Afro), her rage of styles grew as well. "Its all about the accessories" she says. I say its about the confidence. I hesitated for years after she BC'd. Back then, there was something so comforting, about my familiar glossy/flat styles. I couldn't let it go. Not just yet. Despite my BFF's success, Fresh out of college I had so many worries. Can I interview with my coils? Will I get the Job? Will my Boo like it? What will my family say? Will I Still be "Cute"? Armed with Knowledge, and a bit of reassurance from friends, I JUMPED!! After the first Snip, there was no turning back. I big chopped!
ADAPT:
Whether you decide to "Big Chop" (Cut it all off) or "Transition" (Let it grow out, and trim often), letting go of the "Creamy Crack" and all of its habits can be difficult, daunting, and scary. I had relaxed my hair since I was 4 years old (insane!). I had no clue how to care for my natural hair, what it even looked like, or what it needed to thrive. Glossy, flat styles were all I had ever known. I could wrap my hair in my sleep. My Saturdays were spent in the salon. Water & Rain were my sworn enemies, & "Hair Grease" was my bff. For me, Embracing my curls meant embracing a new lifestyle. My Saturdays were MINE once again! I no longer dodged rain drops, but welcomed the added moisture, and carefree moments that came along with it. I tossed out my combs, & shampoo (More on that later). And with the cash I saved, from firing my hairdresser, & purchasing 100% natural oils & butters, I was able splurge on Silk bed sheets & Pillowcases!
1st time I was able to braid my hair after BCADAPT AGAIN:
As my hair continues to grow, my routine changes. As the season change, my hair requires different things. I'm constantly evaluating the health of my hair and adapting my techniques to work with it.
Pineapple 
1yr
1yr
Twistout
18months
18months
Old Twistout
2 Years
2 Years
Pineapple
27months
27months
Twistout on Stretched hair
31 Months
31 Months |
| Bantu Knot Out 35Months |
If you thinking about making a change, I suggest 3 things Research, Adapt, Jump, Adapt again
Feel free to SHARE your stories with the 4b 4c Hair Community on Goggle Plus https://plus.google.com/u/0/communities/100939183574825035919 What was your motivation to go natural? How was your experience received? Where do you stand now? How often to you adapt your routine?
Thinner at the Ends Thicker at the Roots? You May Have Trichoptilosis!
Trichoptilosis – Will Split Your Strands, leaving your hair ends thin
Trichoptilosis- informally split ends, is the splitting or fraying of the hair-shaft due to excessive heat and mechanical stress. Hair gets old, hair gets manipulated, and hair gets damaged. When the hair has experienced a great amount of trauma or has simply reached a certain age, these little nuisances crop up with the intention of destroying our length. There is a difference between Split Ends, & Splitting Ends. Splitting Ends are places along the hair shaft where the cuticle is actively breaking apart and the cortex of the hair is exposed. Splitting ends can occur at any point along the hair shaft, but are the most prevalent near the ends of the hair shaft. Depending on the angle of the split, the tear can reach fairly high up the hair shaft, but a majority of splits simply peel away or break off not far from or right where they originate. Split ends on the other hand, are ends where the main split has already peeled away from the rest of the shaft. These ends are no longer splitting, they are already split and broken off. These ends are thin in density. While our hair will never be totally free of split ends, there are certain measures that you can take to ensure that they don’t take the beauty away from your crowning glory, or prevent length retention.
3 Causes
Thermal, Chemical or Mechanical stress can cause split ends.
Thermal: The use of curling irons, Flat Irons, Hot Combs, Blow Dryers & other heat tools may cause split ends.
Chemical: Excessive application of hair products such as hair coloring, and bleach may strip protective layering off the outside of the hair's shaft and weaken the hair, making the hair prone to split ends.
Mechanical: Includes pulling a comb forcefully through tangled hair and repeated combing. Rough handling of the hair can also cause split ends.
Prevention
Reducing or eliminating the causes will usually prevent split ends. Trimming, or dusting the ends of your hair Will help to decrease your split ends. Unlike Single Strand Knots or ______, there is no remedy for split ends beyond trimming the affected hair. Some shampoos claim to heal split ends by temporarily sealing the ends back together.
Can You Spot them?
How to Detect Split Ends? What to look for?
Look for Little “Y” Shapes at the ends of your hair, these are split ends.
There are different types of split ends…. I have had a variety of these.
The Regular Split End This is the most common form of split end, where there is just one split at the end of a strand
Triple/ Multiple Split looks like a regular split, but there could be three, four, or even five splits on the same end.
Feather / Tree Split ends that appear all over a strand of hair, either all on one side or switching off like in the image.
Double “Y” Split This is when a split forms into another split.
Deep Split If you haven't detected a regular split in a long time, then one end of the split just keeps on growing.
Baby Split The beginning of a new split. These will get worse.
Tapered Split These are regular strands but then begin getting thinner and thinner towards the end.
White Spot Splits Pieces of a stand of hair tapered in and then tapered out (and repeated).
Thickening Splits As in the photo, the split has formed but the ends aren't separated yet.
Incomplete Splits. The split has formed, but then joined together at the end and kept on growing.\
“What Are those White Dots?”
Other types of “split” ends are small breaks in the hair shaft known as TRICHORREXIS NODOSA these are areas where the actual hair cortex has swollen and actually exploded within the shaft. You can tell these types splits by the white dot or node, commonly at the very end of the hair shaft. They can also occur mid-shaft where they will appear as a hairs that bend in hard, unnatural 90 degree angles– ready to break fully away. They often appear as pesky fly always when hair is straightened.
Save Your Strands
Remove the split ends. Get the scissors and cut depending on how bad the split ends are. Keep your kinks well-conditioned and regularly trimmed to reduce the likelihood of new split ends.
How do you fight split ends? Share Your Journey With US
How I Nursed My Heat Damaged Hair, and why I'm seeing results!
How I Nursed My Hair
Back From Heat Damage
It’s not hard to fall victim to heat damage. Pressing Combs, Flat Irons, Blow Dryers, Curling Irons, the options are many, when It comes to stretching your curls. I was caught in a damaging cycle, despite frequent deep conditioning treatments, and trims, my hair was breaking as fast as it was growing. I was stuck in a mid-length rut! To give my strands a rest I put them in a protective style, and maintained my moisture regimen, moisturizing every 3 days using waster, butters, and oils.
It wasn't until I removed the protective style that was able to see just how much damage I had caused. The damage was compounded by a hot comb incident. My new growth was think, healthy, lively, and curly. My heat damaged ends, were straighter, dry, and brittle. There was a clear line of demarcation between the healthy hair, and my damaged ends. I jumped into action, first researching the types of damage. Most hair damage is non-reversible. What’s done is done. I began to strengthen my porous strands with protein, alternating weekly deep conditioner treatments, with hot oil treatments. If you're unsure of your hair’s porosity, you can do a quick test at home to determine it.
Next I micro Trimmed my ends, letting go of any split ends. Split ends cannot be permanently mended. To avoid any further splitting, I trimmed the troubled ends. This not only made detangling much easier, but styling as well. My twists appeared thicker, and their definition lasted longer. After a day I did not miss those 2 inches of limp hair.
Lastly, I put my heat tools on Ice. I kept the irons out of sight, and relied on protective styles, and low manipulation styles, for 2 months after first noticing heat damage. The Low manipulation, combined with a rigorous moisture, and strengthening routine was a success! Months later, my hair is much healthier, noticeably longer, and holds its style better than before. I made 3 simple changes and my hair has not stopped thanking me. I was stuck in a heat-induced Rut, that was further compounded by a hot comb incident. If you’re stuck in a rut, I suggest a few things:
Analyze- what are you doing? How is your hair reacting? Research Possible solutions
Act- Make changes in your regimen, and note the changes in your hair. Moisturize & Protect. Avoid heat as much as possible.
Adjust – You may not be able to step completely away from heat tools, but adjusting to a cooler setting, or using them less are possible options. And worthy sacrifices for healthy curls.
 |
| Day 1 No Bangs! Lots of Breakage Damaged Ends Began Moisture and Deep Conditioner routine and Low Manipulation Styles |
 |
| Day 14 Trimmed Ends Holding Definition Longer Hair seems thicker, less breakage |
 |
| Day 30 |
Removing Mini Twists Protective style Finally Seeing Progress  |
| Day 60 |
Check Back often for more Curl Knowledge.
Visit Us on FaceBook!
No comments:
Post a Comment